Water parameters
Overview
The camel shrimp is recognized by the red and white lines covering its semi-transparent body, the white spots on its back and the Y-shaped white mark at the front of its head. Its eyes are large and black. The hinged rostrum that gives its family its name can move up and down; the way the shrimp sways back and forth as it walks has earned it the name "dancing shrimp". In English it is sold as the "camel shrimp" because of the humped posture of its body.
It is a cheap, hardy species that lives in large groups; it adds movement to fish-only aquariums and stony coral systems. In a reef aquarium, however, it needs caution: it is known to eat zoanthids and some soft coral polyps. Specimens on the market are wild-collected. Other similar-looking species from the same family are also sold under these names from time to time.
Natural Habitat
It lives on rocky coastal reefs from southeastern Africa to the Central Indo-Pacific, at depths of about 5–35 m. During the day it hides in groups of dozens in caves, under overhangs and in crevices; at night it comes out and forages over the rocks.
Tank Setup
- Volume: At least 75 liters for a group of 3–5, with a live rock layout full of crevices.
- Water: Salinity specific gravity 1.023–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, temperature 24–26°C. Calcium, alkalinity and magnesium should be stable; low values make molting difficult.
- Reef compatibility: Reef-safe with caution. Zoanthids, Palythoa and small-polyped soft corals are at risk; it is safer in aquariums with stony corals or without zoanthids.
- Acclimation: It should be acclimated by the drip method for at least 1 hour; freshwater dips and copper-based medications are lethal.
Diet
An omnivorous scavenger. It accepts frozen mysis and brine shrimp, chopped mussels, sinking marine granules and flakes. Since it comes out to feed at night, placing some of the food near the crevices just before the lights go out reduces its interest in coral polyps. A group left hungry does more damage to corals.
Behavior and Compatibility
Peaceful towards fish and largely hides during the day. As it gets used to the aquarium, it also comes out during the day at feeding time. It is compatible with its own kind; dominant males occasionally show their claws to each other, but serious fights are rare.
Good companions: Clownfish, cardinalfish, gobies, damselfish; cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails.
Avoid: Shrimp hunters such as hawkfish, large wrasses, triggerfish and lionfish; coral gardens dominated by zoanthids.
Group and Colony Structure
It should be kept in a group; at least 3, ideally 5 or more individuals. A single specimen becomes shyer and is hardly ever seen. Enough crevices should be provided for every member of the group; a molting shrimp in particular must be able to hide until its shell hardens.
Breeding
Females carry their fertilized eggs under their swimmerets; the eggs hatch in about 1–3 weeks depending on temperature. The larvae live in the plankton for a long time; in the home aquarium they become food for filters and fish, and raising them is not practical.
Health and Common Problems
- Molting: It molts regularly; a transparent shell you find is a molt, not a death.
- Failed molts: Usually caused by fluctuating salinity or low calcium, alkalinity and magnesium.
- Sudden deaths: Copper, rapid acclimation and low oxygen are the most common causes.
Sexing
There is clear sexual dimorphism: dominant males grow larger and their first pair of claws is much bigger. Females are smaller; they are easy to recognize when carrying eggs under the abdomen.
Tank mates
This list is calculated automatically from the species profile and grows as new species are added to the catalog. Try it in the planner for a definite answer.
Should not be kept together
Hobbyist notes
Things you won't find in books, learned by trial and error. The most helpful ones are on top.
Change history and contributors
- Page created · October 16, 2026




