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Fish Freshwater Care: hard Aggressive

Tropheus moorii

Tropheus moorii
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Other names: Moorii, Tropheus, Blunthead cichlid, Tropheus Moliro, Tropheus Kaiser, Tropheus Bemba
Group: Tanganyika cichlids · Family: Cichlidae · Origin: East Africa — rocky shores of Lake Tanganyika

A herbivorous Tanganyika cichlid that wears different colors on every shore of the lake and feeds by scraping the algae layer off rocks. It needs a large group, stable water and low-protein food; it is highly prone to bloat.

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Last updated October 16, 2026

Temperature
24–27°C
pH
8–9
Hardness
10–20 dGH
Adult size
12 cm
Minimum tank size
300 liters
Lifespan
8–12 years
Social structure
Harem (one male, several females)
Group
at least 12, ideally 20+
Male–female ratio
1 erkek : 4–5 dişi; tek renk formu, en az 12 birey
Swimming zone
All levels
Diet
Herbivore
Breeding
Mouthbrooder

Water parameters

Temperature24–27°C
pH8–9
General hardness (GH)10–20 dGH
Recommended range
Eats shrimp Damages plants

Overview

October 16, 2026 · Suggest an edit

Tropheus moorii is recognized by its blunt, thick-lipped mouth, stocky body and colors that change completely from population to population. Because groups on different shores of the lake remained isolated from each other for a long time, dozens of local forms have developed: red, orange, yellow-banded or almost solid-colored. These forms are sold in the trade under the names of their collection sites, such as "Moliro," "Kaiser" and "Bemba"; the classification of some forms sold under the moorii name is still debated.

Its care is similar to that of Malawi mbuna but more demanding. A large group, highly oxygenated stable water and a plant-based diet are essential. The bloat seen in wrongly fed Tropheus can quickly become fatal.

Natural Habitat

October 16, 2026 · Suggest an edit

It lives in rocky areas close to shore, at depths of 1–15 m. It feeds all day by scraping the thin layer of algae and microorganisms (aufwuchs) covering sunlit rock surfaces. The water is very hard, alkaline, wave-washed and rich in oxygen. Each individual defends a small feeding area among the rocks.

Tank Setup

October 16, 2026 · Suggest an edit
  • Volume: at least 300 liters and a length of 150 cm for a group of 12–20. Length matters more than height.
  • Rockwork: plenty of rock piles that break lines of sight; weaker individuals must be able to hide. Algae grows on rocks that receive light and becomes natural food.
  • Water: pH 8–9, hard water; a 30% water change every week. Nitrate should be kept low.
  • Oxygen: a strong filter and surface agitation; an extra air stone is beneficial.
  • Plants: soft-leaved plants get eaten; Anubias attached to rock can often stay.

Diet

October 16, 2026 · Suggest an edit

Herbivorous. The staple should be a low-protein flake or granule based on spirulina or vegetables. Give very small amounts 2–3 times a day; a fasting day once a week eases digestion. Bloodworms, tubifex, beef heart and carnivorous cichlid foods are not given; they are the main triggers of bloat. Frozen brine shrimp or mysis can be given occasionally and in very small amounts.

Behavior and Compatibility

October 16, 2026 · Suggest an edit

There is constant jostling and a hierarchy within the group; the dominant male claims most of the space. Aggression is spread out only in a large group; with only a few Tropheus, the weakest individual becomes the target and may die. Adding new individuals one by one to an established group disrupts it.

Good companions: Cyprichromis and Paracyprichromis living in the middle to upper water, Synodontis catfish; large Julidochromis species in a large aquarium.

Avoid: other Tropheus species or color forms (they hybridize and fight), Petrochromis in a small aquarium, Malawi mbuna, species that need carnivorous food (a shared diet makes Tropheus sick), shrimp and planted setups.

Group and Colony Structure

October 16, 2026 · Suggest an edit
  • At least 12, ideally 15–20 individuals are kept together; only then is aggression shared out.
  • The easiest way is to buy 15–20 juveniles of the same form together; males and females become apparent on their own over time.
  • If setting up an adult group, aim for 1 male : 4–5 females; in a large aquarium there can be more than one male.
  • There should be only one color form in the aquarium; different forms hybridize and attack each other more fiercely.
  • If additions to the group are needed, several individuals are added together and the rockwork is rearranged at the same time.

Breeding

October 16, 2026 · Suggest an edit

The female is a mouthbrooder. The male performs a brief courtship among the rocks; the female lays a small number (usually 5–15) of large eggs and immediately takes them into her mouth. Incubation lasts about 4 weeks and the female does not eat during this time. The fry are released fully developed at close to 1.5 cm; by hiding among the rocks they can often grow up in the main aquarium. They are fed crushed spirulina food and newly hatched brine shrimp.

Health and Common Problems

October 16, 2026 · Suggest an edit
  • Tropheus bloat: the greatest danger. Loss of appetite, white stringy feces, rapid breathing and a swollen belly are seen. It is triggered by the wrong food, overfeeding and stress; if not treated early on expert advice, it can be fatal within a few days.
  • Transport stress: newly arrived groups may refuse food for a few days; they should not be force-fed during this time.
  • Fight wounds: seen when the group is small or the rockwork is inadequate.

Sexing

October 16, 2026 · Suggest an edit

Difficult to tell apart from the outside. Males are usually slightly larger, with a steeper forehead profile, and are the individuals that dominate the group. A brooding female is recognizable by her swollen throat. A definite distinction is made by looking at the genital papilla.

Tank mates

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Usually compatible

Should not be kept together

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Change history and contributors
  1. Page created · October 16, 2026