Water parameters
Overview
The blood parrot is an ornamental fish that emerged in Taiwan in the 1980s from hybridizing Central American cichlids. Its parents have never been officially disclosed; the midas cichlid and a species from the genus Vieja (or other species such as the severum) are thought to have contributed. It is not a species found in the wild.
It got the name "parrot" from its round, hump-backed body, large eyes and small, beak-like mouth. It should not be confused with the true parrot cichlid (Hoplarchus psittacus). Color forms include orange, red, yellow and the "King Kong" with a forehead hump.
Ethical debate: The shortened spine and the mouth that cannot fully close, both resulting from hybridization, can make feeding difficult. Some sellers color the fish by dye injection or tattooing, and the "love heart" form is produced by cutting off the tail fin. These practices are criticized on animal welfare grounds; defenders point out that fish bred by natural means can be healthy and long-lived. Not buying dyed, tattooed or fin-clipped fish is the most effective way to reduce these practices.
Natural Habitat
It has no natural habitat. Its ancestral species come from the warm, moderately hard fresh waters of Central America.
Tank Setup
- Volume: At least 200 liters and 100–120 cm of length for 2–3 fish.
- Decor: Caves and large pots or stone hollows; it likes to hide. It digs in the substrate a little but usually does not do much damage to plants.
- Water: Moderately hard water around neutral; a 25–30% water change every week.
Diet
Omnivorous. Because its mouth does not fully close, small, slow-sinking granules are the easiest food for it to eat. Vary the diet with frozen bloodworms, mysis and brine shrimp. Foods containing astaxanthin are used to maintain the orange-red color. Watch for fish that cannot catch their food.
Behavior and Compatibility
Docile compared with other cichlids, but it guards its own cave and breeding area. Because of the structure of its mouth, it is hard for it to do serious damage by biting.
Good companions: Calm fish of similar size: silver dollars, large tetras (Congo tetra), severum, angelfish (in a large tank), plecos, corydoras.
Avoid: Aggressive large cichlids (it gets outcompeted for food), very small fish and shrimp.
Group and Colony Structure
It can be kept alone, as a pair or as a group of 3–5. In a group it is less skittish. When a pair forms, it claims a territory around its cave.
Breeding
Most males are sterile. Females lay eggs regularly and guard them; the eggs are usually unfertilized and become fungused. Occasionally offspring can be obtained with another cichlid or a fertile male, but this should not be expected in a home aquarium.
Health and Common Problems
- Feeding difficulty: Because of the structure of the mouth, weak fish fall behind in the competition for food.
- Swim bladder problems: Can occur in fish with short, hump-backed bodies.
- White spot (ich): In newly arrived fish; quarantine is recommended.
Sexing
Difficult to tell from the outside. The sexes are told apart by checking the papilla during spawning; females are usually recognized this way because they lay eggs regularly.
Tank mates
This list is calculated automatically from the species profile and grows as new species are added to the catalog. Try it in the planner for a definite answer.
Usually compatible
Emerald Betta
Firemouth Cichlid
Buffalohead Cichlid
Chocolate Cichlid
Festivum
Geophagus altifrons
Geophagus surinamensis
Rainbow Cichlid
Gymnogeophagus balzanii
Should not be kept together
Hobbyist notes
Things you won't find in books, learned by trial and error. The most helpful ones are on top.
Change history and contributors
- Page created · October 16, 2026






